It’s two days into summer break and time for our long anticipated road trip out to South Carolina to visit Jim, Caroline, and the girls. While our main objective will be to drive their car out to them, Sherri & I are also going to try and hit as many National Parks along the way as we can. Since we are going to fly back from SC, it required us to really scale down our normal camping gear. After throwing a bunch of food into the trunk and our luggage in the backseat, we finally hit the road. Approaching the Idaho border we noticed the clouds getting ominously dark, and eventually saw lightening strike the ground no less than a 100 yards up the road from us. Sherri decided to call her friend Sarah in Ontario on our way through who ended up inviting us over for the night. We had a great time catching-up with her and an unexpected bed & shower for our first night on the road. Before calling it a night we all played a few rounds of the original Super Mario Bros. Nintendo game for some good laughs. Sherri is convinced that older video games are better and more challenging since the consequences are so much greater.
$76.45 (gas), $65.36 (groceries), $4.75 (smoothie)
Sarah was a gracious host on our first night out on the road
6-23
For breakfast, Sarah made us oatmeal with berries and a pumpkin spice latte for Sherri. After saying our goodbyes we headed on down the highway driving 8 hours straight to Great Basin National Park in Nevada. The drive led us through numerous valleys with foothills and mountains lining the road. Pulling into the Visitor’s Center at Great Basin we asked about camping, and decided to explore an area called Strawberry Creek. The access road led us 4 miles into the forest to a dead-end where a remote port-a-potty stood in the middle of an open meadow.
From there we set-out on our first hike along a winding, noisy creek that was brimming over onto the banks. We crossed over the creek several times as the trail climbed, eventually leading us to a spot that required us to forge our own crossing. There was sort of a log jam that looked promising. However, as we started working our way across the makeshift beaver dam, Sherri’s leg suddenly plunged armpit deep into the water. I started trying to brace myself in order to reach out a hand, which of course seemed like eternity to her. After helping yank her out of the water, we did a systems check on Sherri’s nerves as well as the electronics in her backpack. Fortunately, nothing was affected by the near drowning incident, besides maybe a little bit of pride.
As we returned to our car, some campers who bid us a nice trip asked us why we returned so quickly. After displaying Sherri’s drenched clothes, they sighed in appreciation of another unexpected swim at the well-known beaver dam crossing. Funny enough, one of their friends was nodding in embarrassment as he described in detail how the exact same thing happened to him earlier that day. Heading back to a little town just outside the park, we came across a little gas station that offered showers for $2 a person. This is a rare luxury since most National Parks only offer primitive services. We found it interesting that it was set up as an honor system where you pay across the street at Jack’s Diner. A gorgeous sunset turned the scattered clouds a deep red as we followed Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive that evening. Sherri scouted out a perfect overlook where we hunkered down in the car for the night.
$44.80 (gas), $2 (shower)
Our first mountain sunset of the trip
6-24
Sherri & I woke up to a spectacular panorama of snow-capped mountains. After taking a bunch of photos and cooking up some coffee and breakfast we headed down to Zion National Park in Utah. Upon entering Kolob Canyon in the North Entrance we drove up to an overlook for a bird’s eye view of the massive rock formations jutting out over 2000 feet above the valley floor. Sherri was still fighting some allergies and blowing snot rockets left and right on the trail. One sinus episode led to a foot long string of snot that clung like a worm from her nose, forcing her to remove it manually. As far as odd people we came across on the trip, we couldn’t help notice a woman wearing an enormous robe in the heat of the day with a huge picture of Mary, mother of Jesus, on the front. She also had a giant walking staff in one hand and an I-phone in the other. We had absolutely no idea what to make of that whole get-up.
On our way back down the valley, we stopped at the Taylor Creek Trailhead for an afternoon hike along the meandering stream. The trail led us through an immensely deep canyon that arched over us with brightly painted orange sandstone. The park service was doing surveys on this trail, so they slapped a GPS tracking device on us to observe our hiking patterns. The end of the trail gifted us with a natural amphitheater in the shape of a dome called Double Arch. Some hikers told us to follow the creek further up the canyon to a hidden waterfall. We ended up having the hidden lagoon all to ourselves at the end of the day, and the small pool beneath the waterfall provided a cold but refreshing bath. On our way back, Sherri’s sandals were chafing, so she opted to go barefoot. Out of sympathy for her situation I eventually decided to join her shoeless voyage.
Upon returning our tracking device to the Forest Service people, they had us complete a computer survey asking our opinion of air traffic noise while hiking in the park. We then traveled to the lower part of the park where we scoped-out a picnic area along the Virgin River to clean up and fix something to eat. As soon as we set up for dinner, the sprinklers turned on all around us, sending us scampering for cover. That night we drove through the remainder of the park with the sun setting on the towering canyon walls. Driving over to the Grand Canyon that evening we noticed what appeared to be a mother skunk with three little ones following close behind. After passing by them our noses confirmed our suspicions. Eventually we pulled off the highway onto a forest road to catch some shuteye.
$80 (Annual Parks Pass); $63.10 (gas); 7mi. hiked; Wildlife (4 skunk, 4 deer, 1 fox).
Wheeler Peak still had too much snow on it for an ascent
No Kleenex + allergies = lots of snot rockets
I'm not one to ever turn down a free shower in the backcountry
Fossilized shells could be seen along the riverbank
6-25
Driving into Grand Canyon National Park early the next morning helped us get a little head start on the crowds at the Visitor’s Center. Our first view into the belly of this mammoth crack in the Earth left us speechless. As big as you can picture the Grand Canyon in your mind from seeing pictures or movies really can’t compare to witnessing its depth and beauty with your own eyes. After loading our camelbacks up with free spring water we headed out on our first hike of the day to Widforss Point. As soon as I got the GPS squared away, Sherri led the way up the sloping hillside onto a wooded plateau overlooking the canyon. She kept us going at a 3.6 mph moving average, which as far as hiking goes, is clipping along really fast. According to the trail description she read, the overlook should only have been 2 miles in, but we ended up hiking beyond the canyon ridge and through a valley forest for an additional 3 miles to the lookout point. Beautiful as it was, the hike ended up being a grueling 10 miles round trip that whipped us pretty good. Sherri later realized after reading the full description of the hike that the initial scenic overlook at mile 2 is where most day hikers end up turning around since finishing the rest of the hike out to Widforss Point is painfully more strenuous.
Having spent most of our energy and sunburned skin on our first hike, we opted for a nice AC drive in the car out to Cape Royal for lunch and scenic viewing. Having seen Angel’s Window from afar on the short nature walk trail, I had Sherri run up ahead to strike a pose directly above the natural rock bridge. Thinking I had found the perfect viewing spot to make a sandwich, I hadn’t realized just how windy it gets along the canyon rim. Fighting to keep the peanut butter jar from blowing over the edge into oblivion, I finally managed to scarf down a PB&J and soak in the view without being swept off the cliff myself. Later that afternoon we spotted a coin-operated shower house in the campground that we couldn’t resist. Despite the fire hose showerhead that could blast the paint right off your car, that was the best $1.50 we’ve spent all month. Having gotten all freshened up and some tuna Mac & cheese to go, we happened upon a conversation with a man who warned us of the crowds down at the South Entrance. Since it was now the weekend, traveling another 240 miles for basically mirror views and even worse tourist craziness seemed less attractive by the minute. So on toward the Petrified Forest we drove until a faithful rest stop hosted us for another evening in the car.
$26.50 (gas); $3 (shower); 13.5mi. hiked; Wildlife (1 deer)
Sherri striking a pose above Angel's Window
The far-off Colorado River winding its way through the canyon
6-26
This morning at the truck stop we fixed our traditional coffee & oatmeal, then drove into Petrified Forest National Park. After watching a nature film and picking up some souvenirs at the Rock Shop, we set out on our first hike in the 95-degree scorching heat. The trail led us into a valley covered with massive logs and stumps completely transformed into beautiful quartz and stone. Barely anyone else cared to venture down into this abyss of prehistoric wonder as we watched people fighting over the coin-operated binoculars above. Having captured a bunch of photos we headed on toward the Navaho ruins where strikingly vivid hieroglyphs could be seen along the faces of giant boulders surrounding the sacred grounds. All these elements together really solidified the depth and unique history this place holds.
Having been pounded by the heat for most of the morning, we chose to hit the road for some AC comfort as we drove across the barren landscape of Arizona towards Saguaro National Park. We were hoping to maybe find a local park or recreation area along the way for a nap in the shade or maybe to swim in a river or lake somewhere. However, despite the word creek being added to more than a dozen campgrounds and park names along the way, there was no actual water to be found. It also didn’t help that the air was dryer than a popcorn fart and there was nothing luring us out of our cool air-conditioned car. The only water we came across was flowing down a concrete aqueduct, quickly evaporating on its way to Phoenix. Arriving just outside the park, we found a spot in a Walmart parking lot to stay for the evening.
$32.60 (gas); $2 (snack); $10.68 (Petrified Rock); 1.5mi. hiked; Wildlife (ravens)
All that was left of our car after coming back from a hike
RRRRRoooooaaaaarrrrr!!!!!
6-27
It was a hot night’s sleep, but made for an easy early wake-up to beat the heat in Saguaro National Park the next morning. Driving through the east end of the park first, we got to see gigantic Saguaro cactus spread out across the desert plains and hillsides. Along the way I happened to see a bird of prey perched on top of a cactus, so I abruptly turned the car around for a closer look. Sherri caught some excellent shots with the camera and later found out that it was a Red-tailed Hawk. We also heard several Morning Doves wooing from the treetops and saw an iguana sunning itself on a rock. Upon entering the west end of the park we noticed roadblock signs in front of all the trails prohibiting any backcountry access whatsoever due to the extreme fire danger.
The loop drive was still beautiful and full of wildlife. We first noticed a Road Runner dancing across the sand with its quick feet, and then a Harris Hawk soaring high above looking for prey. Rabbits were darting in and out of the cactus plants, hiding behind the sharp needles that surrounded them like a protective cocoon. After leaving the park we drove through New Mexico and into Texas where we spoiled ourselves with a hotel and dinner-out. We thought it was appropriate to dine at the Texas Roadhouse, and couldn’t actually finish our plates due to the huge portion sizes. We then headed back to the hotel for a dip in the pool and fell asleep watching a movie.
$35.60 (gas); $51.98 (hotel); $4.28 (snack); $37.00 (dinner-out); 1mi. hiked
Morning Doves serenaded us on our hike through the giant Saguaro cactus
Red-tailed Hawk scoping-out the territory
6-28
After a great night’s sleep on an actual bed, we snagged a quick breakfast in the lounge and then headed out to Carlsbad Caverns National Park. Driving out of El Paso, TX we couldn’t help notice across the river a cluster of shanty homes scattered all across the hillside. I mentioned to Sherri that it looked a lot like Mexico City, and sure enough, we were unknowingly looking across the border into Mexico. It was a long drive across the desolate wasteland until we finally reached the park. We were pleasantly surprised to find out that our National Parks Pass covered the general admission charge to enter the caves. Plus, a majority of the cave network was self-guided, allowing us to leisurely explore the underground labyrinth on our own.
Dropping down into the natural entrance seemed surreal as a single beam of sunlight followed us into the dark rock cathedral. The trail wound down deeper and deeper into the earth, revealing oddly shaped pillars of Calcium Carbonate and other formations that were being fed by the constant dripping of water from the roof. Working our way down the vast cave network we came across a giant void in the floor called the bottomless pit. As Sherri pulled out the map to read up on where we were, our pass ticket happened to fall out just on the other side of the railing. We helplessly watched it float like a leaf, back and forth until it landed just out of reach. Not sure of which was worse, littering or going off trail, we debated on the appropriate action to take in this precarious situation. Eventually, I decided to jump the fence and rescue the trash (with our names on it) from an imminent plunge into oblivion.
At the end of the trail we couldn’t help but laugh at the underground food court and gift shop all lit-up like a shopping mall. After jumping an elevator ride back up to the Visitor’s Center, we waited to observe the nightly bat flight out of the cave entrance. Due to the drought and recent fire in the park, bat populations had substantially decreased. Even still, about 10,000 bats flew-out of the cave that night in a whirlwind flurry that peppered the sky. We somehow misplaced Sherri’s Nalgene water bottle that afternoon, which was an upsetting loss. Later that evening we drove to Guadalupe National Park and settled in for the night at the trailhead for our peak climb tomorrow morning.
$44.62 (gas); 3mi. hiked
6-29
Waking up early to the amber glow of the desert sun, we started up the steep trail to Guadalupe Peak (8,749ft.). Attempting to beat the heat of the day, we reached the summit and returned to the parking lot before noon. Satisfied with reaching the highest point in Texas, we continued our long road trip down to Big Bend National Park. More barren wasteland snarled at us across the Southern states with its blistering heat, sending us on a desperate search for any kind of land water, and the Rio Grand was or last hope.
Driving through the currently abandoned park, we took some pictures of the surrounding mountains and finally ended up at Cottonwood Campground some 35 miles deep into the park. It was a pleasant surprise to see actual green, mowed grass in the campground that stood out like a lush forest amidst the dry fields of sagebrush and cactus surrounded it. After getting settled in, we packed some food and headed out on a search for the river. Unfortunately, the drought in this area made the mighty Rio look like a little trickling mud bog. I still splashed around in it to cool off, but it was definitely not what we were hoping for.
That night we slept under the stars in our sleeping bags on the grassy lawn, which turned out being much more exciting, or maybe even scarier than we could have ever imagined. Apparently, there are some resident horses that have free range at this place, and were causing all sorts of trouble. Their ringleader was a white horse who was bullying all the others by charging them and neighing battle cries. We also got the impression he wasn’t real pleased with us being on his turf as they kept inching closer and closer. The real kicker that sent us running to the car for cover was when two giant Texas Longhorn cattle strolled into the campground looking to stand their ground on the fresh grassy field as well. As if lying on the battlefield directly between these two opposing parties wasn’t enough, a pack of Javelinas were squealing and snorting in the surrounding forest like a war party planning an ambush. Eventually, the owls calmed everybody down with their soothing hooting sounds, allowing us to finally catch some shut-eye.
$20.30 (gas); $1.50 (mega-pop); 10 mi. hiked; Wildlife (2 Texas Longhorns)
Victoriously climbed the highest peak in Texas (8,749ft.)
6-30
After sleepily waking up the next morning, we walked over to have breakfast with another couple that camped right next to us. We were the only people in the entire campground, and enjoyed hearing their impressions of the crazy wildlife fiasco last night. Later, we entered the beautiful Santa Elena Canyon, which substantially raised my interest in the park. As we hiked along the river between the towering rock walls we noticed all kinds of animal tracks, yet it remained disturbingly quiet. Tall reeds lined the banks as we squeezed our way through giant boulders, shadowing us with their foreboding presence.
It was a long drive out of the park that afternoon, but we finally made it to Dallas, TX. Driving through this area really gave us a new understanding about the reality of movies like Texas Chainsaw Massacre. That night we were able to meet up with Sherri’s brother Jim who just happened to be in that area for a conference. We had a nice dinner together in the lounge and then traveled up towards Hot Springs National Park.$71.50 (gas); $28 (dinner-out); $1 (mega-pop); 1.5 mi. hiked; Wildlife (3 Road Runners)
Elena Canyon would have been a beautiful float trip with higher water levels
7-1
This morning we strolled into Hot Springs, which seemed exceptionally busy for a weekday. Sherri eventually found us a free parking spot at a picnic area up along the Tower road. From there we were able to hike the Gulpha Gorge Trail out to Goat Rock overlook and eventually down to the creek for a dip in the water. We then worked our way down to the Visitor’s Center (former Fordyce Bathhouse), which is now a museum displaying the extravagant lifestyles of those who once splurged on all sorts of experimental spa and message treatments.
After snooping around the old haunted health spa we verified the boiling temperature of the water trickling out of the natural spring and crossed the road for some ice cream. Since soaking in a hot tub was probably the last things we wanted to do after hiking around on a 95-degree day, we headed back up to the picnic area to wash up and hit the road again. We made it about 200 mi. before having to pull over at a rest stop to sleep.
$66.50 (gas); $11.25 (Nalgene water bottle); $4.25 (ice cream cones); 5 mi. hiked
Getting us squared away on the GPS for our hike
Yo Adrian!
Just finishing-up after and MRE meal at the picnic area
7-2
It was another 200 mi. from the rest area to Mammoth Caves National Park. We soon realized it was 4th of July weekend, and turned out being their busiest Saturday of the year. After being directed to drive across the lawn into a makeshift overflow parking area, we followed the herds of people through the ticket lines. The Visitor’s Center strangely resembled an airport with elevated TV displays showing the sparsely available cave tour times. We eventually met an attendant who got us tickets to the New Entrance tour and a self-guided tour through the natural entrance for a hefty $32. The self-guided path was a short but cool walk through a section of the cave where we could see the remnants of a saltpeter and gypsum mine.
After lunch we hopped on a shuttle bus that took us up to a once private entrance that some dude blew open with dynamite back in the day. Probably the most interesting part of this tour was the elaborate steel staircase system that was built to weasel everybody down a narrow 250ft. deep slot straight down to the main vein of the cave network. Sherri of course never had to duck once the entire route except for a slight head tilt through a section called Fat Man’s Misery. Once out of the cave we routed a new course and left the crowds to travel up to Cuyahoga Valley National Park in Ohio. Strolling into a rest stop that night we noticed some lightning, which eventually broke loss into a thunderstorm.
$64.25 (gas); $32 (Cave tours); 2 mi. hiked; Wildlife (4 wild turkeys)
7-3
The rain from the night before really brightened up the trees, filling the streams and rivers up to the brim for our visit to Cuyahoga. Our first hike of the day took us along a creek that tumbled over Blue Hen Falls. Just as we were about to turn back, a couple of hikers told us of an even more spectacular waterfall further downstream that wasn’t on the map. Sure enough, walking alongside the creek for another half mile led us right on top of hidden Buttermilk Falls. It was a gorgeous sight seeing the water gently cascade down the multiple layers of rock. It really did look like milk as the water frothed its way down the side of the cliff. Since it happened to be Sunday morning with most everyone still in church, we nearly had the trail to ourselves as we worshiped God in His outdoor sanctuary.
Later we stopped by Brandywine Falls for lunch and then out to an area called The Ledges by Kendall Lake for a nap in the shade. Hiking around this section of the park proved to be quite interesting as we crawled around the craggy cliffs and caverns. On our way out of the park we stopped by the beaver marsh to snap some photos of a Blue Heron scoping out the area as well as a tortoise dragging a bunch of swamp guck on its shell. From there we left the park and drove the long and expensive route across the Appalachians. The Ohio and Pennsylvania turnpikes ended up costing more than dinner, but we eventually made it all the way to Shenandoah National Park where we found a place to crash as the Fireflies lulled us to sleep with their evening lightshow.
$38.15 (gas); $15 (highway toll); 4 mi. hiked
Blue Hen Falls might be our portrait shot of the year
Finding the hidden Buttermilk Falls was a treat
Kraft Easy Cheese- No Refrigeration Necessary
Brandywine Falls made a great lunch stop area
Barely beat the 10 sec. self-timer on this photo
7-4
Sherri mentioned today how appropriate it was for us to be spending the 4th of July in Virginia since it just so happens to be home to Thomas Jefferson. As we strolled into the Visitor’s Center at Shenandoah with our instant coffee and breakfast bars in hand, we caught a ranger who gave us some suggestions on potential hikes. He described a butt-kicker hike that perked my interest with several waterfalls and canyons, but first we did a short hike up Stony Man Peak. We caught some excellent views of the Smoky Mountains from a unique outcropping of rocks where a group of people were singing John Denver Songs. Sherri couldn't resist chiming in on the harmony with them.
From there we headed down to Whiteoak Canyon on the butt-kicker trail. Eventually we reached an area where we could hear a bunch of hooting and hollering down below, and soon found out the location of a natural waterslide. Several people had already been shooting down the algae-slick rock into a deep pool, and it didn’t take long for Sherri and I to join in on the fun. We dried off the best we could and continued our trek down the canyon to another spectacular set of waterfalls. Having taken a bunch of photos and some more swimming, we climbed back up to the car just as the clouds set in for another thunderstorm.
On our quest to find a covered picnic area we spotted a mother Black Bear and cub along the roadside. Keeping a safe distance we snapped some photos from the car and later stumbled across a shower facility next to the picnic area. After spending a couple bucks on a much-needed shower, we fixed some dinner and ate it in the car since it was starting to rain. Just then a man wrapped on our window and told me he thinks I might have a Deer Tick bite on my leg. The fact that someone had noticed how bruised and scraped-up my legs were made me finally realize just how messed up they really looked, but fortunately no lime disease.
Continuing our drive out of the park, a rolling patch of fog at an overlook caught our attention as it crept through the hillside like a white-caped dragon. Leaving the South Entrance we snapped a soggy portrait of ourselves next to the National Park sign just before the sun disappeared for the evening. It was only another 2-hour drive until we found a rest stop to crash for the night.
$2 (shower); Wildlife (3 black bear, 4 deer)
Keeping up on my journal for the blog
The fog made for a mysterious view the Smoky Mountains
7-11
Having hung-out with Jim, Caroline, and the girls for the past few days, we decided to explore Congaree National Park together since it is located only 30 miles from their house. Caroline wasn’t able to join us because of work, but the rest of us piled into the van with our lunches packed, ready to hike. Honestly speaking, this particular park did not initially appeal to me as much since it is generally described as a mosquito-infested swamp. Fortunately, the Mosquito Meter at the Visitor’s Center only read a 2½ out of 6, meaning that it was only mildly buggy as opposed to a full-on swatting battle zone. Besides encountering a few wasps on trail, the bugs really didn’t bother us that much at all. Spiders, on the other hand, were in full force. One of the biggest spiders I have ever seen caught our attention as we noticed it clutching a moth, which was helplessly twitching in the spider’s grasp. From that point on we were more careful in avoiding hanging cobwebs in fear that one of these giant arachnids might try and latch itself onto our face.
Reaching our halfway point at Weston Lake we took a snack break and watched the turtles swim around the dock. Further on down the trail we heard what sounded like people yelling and hollering at the top of their lungs from inside the forest. As we turned toward the noise we noticed it slowly change into the hooting sounds of an owl. Sure enough, just as we started walking again I noticed out of the corner of my eye an enormous Barred Owl swooping down through the treetops. I convinced the others to follow me into the woods where I thought the owl might have landed. Through the binoculars I spotted a thick mound of feathers atop a low-lying branch with eyes spun around looking right back at me. We took turns spying on the owl through the binoculars and then left it in peace amongst the quietness of the forest.
3mi. hiked
You know you're in trouble when there's a Mosquito alert sign
The biggest spider I have ever seen
Sliding down a natural waterslide at Shenandoah
Total Trip Cost: $940; Total Miles Hiked: 51.5
